Bangkok

Although I am sad to leave Vietnam, I loved spending some time in Bangkok.

Had lunch at the Oriental Hotel, then Signa and I took the water ferry, not sure what you call it, along the river to the Palace and hopefully, the Reclining Buddha temple. Was very confusing to understand what boat we got on and where we needed to get off, but what a blast. Wish I had pictures as it was quite an adventure packed into the passenger ferry with all the Thai people. I finally asked a young guy to help us figure out how to get to the palace and he walked us off and around to the next ferry to get there. AFter that, we were lost.

And my camera was out of batteries so I have no photos of that part. And of course, its boiling hot. Unbearably, drippingly, stiffling hot.

We walk to the palace and figure out its just too long to wander through and we would rather see the Reclining Buddha temple. Wandering along that way, we keep seeing tuk tuk drivers that tell us the temple is closed and we should go to this other temple that is a little Further away. We ignore them as we wander browsing the street side shops, and arrive at the REclingin Buddha temple to find its open and all kinds of people entering in. Glad we persisted.

We hired an individual guide as soon as we entered and had the best time. Was only about a 45 minutes tour, but learned so much. He was funny and excited to answer our neverending questions.

That evening we went to a Thai Restaurant with another friend from our trip. His wife was still sick from some Coconut Shake she had earlier, but he was up for going out. Signa and I had soft shell crab in yellow curry. And a glass of not so good red wine. Cant wait to get home and have a decent glass of wine. The whole time we were in the restaurant, there was a live Thai band and dancers. Fun but chic. Great place. Mango Tree - in case you are ever in Bangkok.

AFter dinner we walked around the night market up the street. Lots of massage parlors sprinkled about like a mini red light district. A bustling market goes on in the street until late in the night. We were so hot and tired of all the markets in Vietnam, that we just wandered a little bit then went home to call it a night. An early flight to Tokyo (where I am now) had us getting up at 3:00am. But Im almost homeeeeeeeeeee.

Mekong Delta

Just came back from the Mekong River. What a beautiful place. The Mekong River is filthy but rich with culture! Cruised along the river and its river banks looking at the markets and life along the shore line. Because tomorrow starts Tet, the lunar new year, its a huge holiday and everything is closing early and people are headed home to their families for atleast 3 days to celebrate. Most fishing boats are in port as well.

We also went to a small island where we walked throught the jungle and to a coconut candy factory. I hate coconut, but this was pretty good. Bringing home samples. Also on our boat we had fresh young coconut juice out of the coconut with a straw, then the lady in the back of the boat slices it on half, cuts a chunck of the outer shell off as a spoon, and you scoop the inner fresh meat out. Tasty and I hate coconut. Its not dry and sweet, but soft and yummy.

Then we stopped at a bee farm (photo for Amy my beekkeeping friend) and had local fruit while they showed us their bees and a huge boa constrictor. Then a short cruise along a small creek by row boat where we re boarded our big boat to another island for lunch. Had a fried fish called elephant ear fish, which the hostess cut and rolled into spring rolls at our table. Delicious.

Once back in Saigon I got dropped off at the local market to boil myself one more time before leaving Vietnam in the morning. A farewell dinner tonight and off to Bangkok. Can't wait to get home even though it has been a fascinating journey.

Saigon & Cu Chi Tunnels

Had a great time boiling myself nearly to death yesterday at the Binh Market in Saigon. It was sooooo hot, I can't believe I made it home. Went there to buy Vietnamese mountain coffee. Crazy place. Tried to buy some cute sandals, but these ladies feet are way too small. Nothing cute in my size. Although many salespeople tried to lure me in by saying "Have shoes for big ladies", it just didn't quite win me over.

After a terrible nights sleep (all the a/c goes out at night in every hotel I guess to conserve energy) because it was hot and our a/c unit dripped in the middle of the night sounding like rain was pouring down into the middle of the room - I was off to the Cu Chi Tunnels. Was so interesting to learn about how they used the tunnels and how that helped them stay so strong to survive the war. The tunnels spanned 125 miles! The way they were camoflaged in the jungle floor was amazing. We were standing right on top of one of the tunnel entrances without even knowing it. Some tunnels came out under the Saigon River so they could swim down and enter or exit from under the water and not be detected from inside the tunnel or outside. So cool.

I have adult onset claustrophobia, so I didn't know if I would be able to get down in the tunnels and crawl through, but I did it. The first one wasn't so bad, only about 30 feet. The second one, also not so long, but there was a bat in there, which of course came flying out with me as I crawled through the tunnel. Was horrifying. My legs still hurt because I moved so fast at such an awkward position. Next tunnel longer, but again a bat came flying out at me as I was entering the tunnel from a chamber, that I had to fling myself down flat on my back to keep it from flying into my head. Then race through to the next chamber and out another tunnel into the air. It was a nightmare. You would think I learned my lesson on the previous tunnel, but I didn't think it could be any worse. The claustrophobia wasn't even an issue, it was the bats that were the problem. Needless to say, I do not have any photos inside the tunnels as I was too busy running, ducking or just plain freaking out, but my guide does. I'll see if I can get one from him. The few pictures I posted are from above ground. One is a booby trap with bamboo spears below, another is the guide disappearing down a tunnel entrance in the jungle.

Anyway, back to the boiling city of Saigon to explore for the afternoon and evening.

Lat Village & Arrive Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon

Last night we went to a Lat Village performance. They are a minority people and did a tradional music and dance show for us. It was kind of hokey at first when we pulled over to the side of the road and had to walk in between a few houses to the back yard between some houses and here were the Lat people in their traditional garb and a fire pit. Then I learned that they used to live by the river and have been pushed out of the city further and further into the mountains because they are a minority people. This is a little spot they have been able to hold out for themselves. Their music, from bamboo reeds, and gongs and drums was upbeat with a great sound. They got us to dance with them (not hokey at all) and drink rice wine from a huge jar with big long straws. Everyone drinking from the same 2 straws in the single jar. Everyone had to take several turns and finish the wine. It was pretty gross but fun and everyone participated to their best ability.

Not much to add about today so far. Just arrived in Saigon and have a terrific hotel with a suite of rooms. I had received some sad news before I left the hotel in Dalat and then upon arrival in Saigon we stopped at the Vietnam War Museum which was really difficult. The Vietnamese have really tried to put the war behind them and celebrate a good relationship with the U.S. now, but it is so sad to see what happened during the war. Really horrific. So I'm not feeling very up today, although better since having some Pho for lunch. :) This place is filled with locals sitting at bar stools all sharing the same table. You get a big bowl of mint leaves, bean sprouts, green onion and hot peppers to add to your soup. Really tasty. The picture of the man waving is the motor bike parking attendant in front of the Pho restaurant. (I'm just now noticing his FBI hat.) You can barely see the people in the window eating their Pho with a big pile of leaves in front of them.

Montagnard Village

Last night we had our home hosted dinner. Extended family of 30 people lived in this house, built by their grandfather. We ate a great dinner, great banana wine (homemade) and learned about their wacky religion that combines Buddhism, Crhistianity, Hinduism and a whole bunch of other saints. They have a huge altar in their house to worship their ancestors.

This morning we went to a mountain village, Montagnard Village, to observe the life there. A long and car sickness route up, over and around the mountains. Along the way we stopped at a flower farm. Gerber daisys everywhere. Following that we stopped at a silk farm. The silk worms are many and at this factory, they spin the silk into thread, then weave it into patterned fabric and then dye it. They do the whole process here and even had some small items for sale. I bought a silk skirt and scarf.

On to the village of Montagnard. It apparently is a remote mountain village that mostly grows coffee beans, is Catholic and a minority group that was pushed further from Dalat into the mountains because they are from the Cambodian/Laotian roots. They also speak their own language/dialect, not Veitnamese, and speak a little French. We were brought down to the village by a tractor, which once we got closer to the village, children came running from every house to climb on the back of the wagon and ride with us. It was wonderful. The children were absolutely filthy, because the road is a very red dirt and it is very poor here, but they were all smiles and waves. Each one more beautiful than the next. We got to visit a family's home (straw hut with a baby pig penned in the corner) and their kitchen (open fire in the middle of the floor, one pot). there is no running water or bathrooms. All water is taken from a well shared by six families.

We also walked down to the village grocery store (straw hut with eggs and soda) and the local school which the travel company foundation renovated (hence our connection with this little village of 900 people). Then to meet with the village chief. I passed another old man (80 years old) who let us see his house (one straw hut room with a bed and open fire in the middle of the floor). I gave him some sharks teeth I found on our beaches in Wilmington (also gave to the chief) and he was impressed and delighted (as was the chief). He asked if he should eat them, so I fear they will be ground up and mixed into something for "power" or "manliness" or something like that. Glad I brought them from home. Just wish I had brought a bunch of paper Krispy Kreme hats for all the kids. Would have been hilarious!

After the village visit we stopped at a Cricket farm. They also sold scorpions. I didn't eat the scorpion, but I did have the fried crickets which I dipped in hot sauce. Delicious. Gets a little bit stuck in your teeth, but pretty good. So far thats the wackiest food we have had. Sorry to disappoint you Paul!

Dalat

I am now writing from Dalat. Its a mountain town and was a 4 hour drive here along the most car sickness, slow, single laned highway EVER. Altitude is only like 4000 feet or something, but its a really nice change from the coast and cities.

Visited a Zen monastary on top of the central peak in Dalat. Meditated in the pagoda while one of the monks clanged a big bowl that resonated sound like a gong. A memorable moment in my life I doubt I will be able to repeat.

Off momentarily to a home hosted dinner. Bought some local wine ($2) to share at dinner with our hosts. Wine is not very available in Vietnam - so this is a treat for me as well as our hosts.

Pictures are of Nha Trang in the crocodile shop, a gas station!!!, the Zen pagoda and the view from our room. Our hotel room is outstanding. Big and spacious with two windows as its a corner room. Breeze is wonderful from the mountains, thank goodness as hotel does not have air conditioning, because it is not needed.

Mui Island

What a great day. Took a boat to Mui Island to a little fishing village. They do not have running water on this island of 3000 people, but draw their water each day from the town well. We strolled through the village and out the other side to get a ride round the harbor in basket boats to meet back up with our big boat. The old woman in my boat let me paddle (add this to my skills I have learned in Vietnam: round basket boat paddling!) and her helper was a young 14 year old girl. Spoke pretty good english so it was nice to have a conversation. The woman looked about 100 and was apprently my age although I didn't ask. She had 3 children around Avery, August & Delilah's ages. Its a hard life here for some I guess.

After boarding our boat at another fish farm (lobsters, cuttle fish, blow fish, sea urchin, shark, crab) we cruised over to another side of the island that had a beach resort. Heaven. Swimming, snorkeling, etc. Had a foot massage ($5) while in my lounge chair after having just had grilled prawns and shish kebab for lunch on the terrace beneath the palm trees. We stayed her all morning and afternoon and was wonderful after having been on the go for 2 weeks straight. I did get a little sunburn, but not too bad.

And I also learned a new favorite cocktail - the Nha Trang Bay: gin, curacao, orange juice, lime juice.

Upon arrival at the hotel, Lilly and I ran down to the local spa (SuSpa) for an hours aromatherapy massage ($27). :) Felt like a noodle. A great wrap up to an awesome day.

Water Buffalos!!!

I knew I forgot a day in there somewhere!!! This is for August! The kids with their water buffalos was unbelievable. They were so relaxed and friendly. The animals I mean. Want to adopt a water buffalo when I get home!

Nha Trang

Arrived in Nha Trang by a short hours flight. Its a beautiful beach resort city. Lots of tourists from all over the world. Mostly backpackers and young beautiful people from Australia. Great restaurants, lots of fresh fish everywhere. Neat spot and definitely different from where we have been. Its a big city, but on the beach.

In the morning we took a ride out to a little village in the country to have lunch with the chief of the village. The lunch wa prepared by his wife. During lunch (shrimp, fish, cuttlefish, chicken, spinach, beef, soup....) outside in the yard, little chicks kept pecking my toes because of the nail polish. While the chief was speaking with us, a snake slithered under the table between me and the lady next to me. Then a bull frog hopped by. WAs bizarre. Noone even noticed. Then I learned how to make baskets with the chiefs daughter. WE strolled through their village streets (dirt path) and headed back to town. Sounds dull, but it wasn't. We called it A Day in the Life.

Dinner was in town, after we had some free time to walk down to the beach for a drink. Apparently, the Sail Club, was a big spot for GI's during the war. Too many uyoung beautiful kids in bikinis. Makes me feel really old.

Right now I am in the dining room of our hotel having just had breakfast and they are playing some english Happy New Year song BLASTING in my ear. Bizarre. Its 8:00am.

Hoi An and Thu Bon River

After peddaling my **** off to the beach (hot, sunny, bike seat too low, no gears)and passing the beach club several times, I finally found it. Parked my bike, sat on my lounge chair, walked to the water and.... it smells fishy. Really fishy. And is murky brown. And no one is swimming. And its a little windy so not as hot anymore. So I take a few photos and go back to my lounge. Immediately bothered by lady selling trinkets. Buy something to make her go away. She doesn't. I finally hold up my book in fornt of my face while she continues to place items for sale in rows on my leg. 10 minutes later, I have to head back to the hotel. Not a great relaxing excursion, but I did get some exercise.

This afternoon we took a cyclo ride around the neighborhood streets and canals. Its sort of like little islands everwhere connected by bridges and walkways. Really fun and interesting. Passed some shrimp farms. Stopped at a little old lady's house to see how they live there. She chews the beetle nut, which makes their teeth red. It gives them a little high. Not sure what kind of high as I was afraid to try to chew it. In addition to her red teeth from the beetlenut, the older Vietnamese dye their teeth black, yes black, for beauty. Its horrifying. Hope you can see it in my picture.

After the cyclo ride, we took a river boat cruise. It was like a little fishisng boat with eyes and the waterway was sort of like the Cape Fear River. People were fishing with nets and little wooden boats. Really neat. Then he dropped us off in the middle of town while the sun set. We had dinner at some hip fusion restaurant and then wandered around town shopping, but buying nothing. Lilly bought one of those coconuts they drill the center out of and stick a straw in. Its huge and green. This one was not sweet and tasted terrible.